Updated 4-4-24
What is Autocross?
30-70 second test of driver skill and car handling ability through a cone course (5-8 passes)
Speeds usually do not exceed 70-85mph
Locations include parking lots, Airport runways, and real race tracks
Low cost of entry $35-55
Low risk of damaging your car
Minimal wear on your car with the exception of tires
Must pass basic safety inspection (car has to be in good working order)
Helmet needed (clubs usually offer loaners for free). SA2010 or newer recommended; some clubs allow M-rated.
You must work part of the day (picking up cones etc)
Any car will do, but small cars usually excel (Miata, Lotus, BRZ/FRS etc) see our AUTOCROSS BUILDS PAGE HERE
HERE IS A TYPICAL AIRPORT STYLE AUTOCROSS!
What to bring to autocross
Water/Food
Sunscreen/umbrella
Tire Pressure Gauge (LINK) / Tire Inflator / Chalk
Cameras with mounts
Car Phone Charger
Rubber-made tub for your loose items or if it rains.
Windex or Spray Wax for removing dust to attach camera mounts and clean windshield
Painter's Tape that contrasts the color of your car
(Optional) SNELL SA Approved Helmet - Recommend Simpson FR Crusier (LINK)
(Optional) Torque Wrench - Your wheel's lug nuts must be properly torqued. Don't trust the tire shop! Many clubs require verification at tech inspection.
Be prepared to suck. There are always folks with more money, time and skill. Set expectations for fun. The best way to get better is seat time!
Basic Prep
Make sure your car is in good working order ex: no leaks or loose parts. Suspension should be tight, brake pedal should be firm, and no bald tires.
Use blue painters tape to tape off any sections that you would worry about getting hit by cones (ex: if you have a new car/show car etc)
Use valet key or remove key-chains
Remove excess items from vehicle. You do not want items rolling around while on the track
Remove radar detectors
Bring any specialized tools for your car. ex: Coil-over adjustment wrenches etc
Remove valve stem caps
Arrive with at least a half-tank of gas. Some cars can starve for fuel during hard turns when the tank level is lower.
Beginners Guide to Classing - (SCCA RULES)
This will get you in the door and going at a local event. When you start getting more into the sport and your car starts "bending" the rules you'll have to sit down and read the painfully long and confusing rule-book. This is ESPECIALLY true at National events where tech inspection can be brutal.
MY CAR IS STOCK
Go here and find your car! (Its the SCCA websites rule book).
MY CAR HAS SUSPENSION MODS
Class "STX" is a good place to start if you have wheel width no larger than 245. Example cars would be BRZ/FRS with handling mods and tire changes
Class "STU" has tire width restriction of 275 for RWD and 245 for AWD
MY CAR HAS A CRAP LOAD OF MODS (ENGINE AND SUSPENSION)
SM - Street modified (RWD cars) or SMF - Street Modified Front Wheel Drive - Be warned you can run slicks in this class!
SSM - for 2 seaters from factory
ITS A RACE CAR WITH AN ENGINE SWAP
Likely XP but some classes, like SM and SSM allow for same model maker engine swaps. You will really have to delve into the rule book though.
OTHER RESOURCES
WALK THE TRACK
Walking the track is critical to knowing the course. You only get 4-8 runs so memorizing the track before hand is important
Make sure to keep an eye on optional slaloms. Run the course through your head to see if exiting left or right is more beneficial
Look where you would want to shift into 2nd/3rd.
Walk it without distractions or turning around. If you need to walk it more than once. If you are in a later heat walk it again during lunch break.
Ride with an experienced driver & Have them ride with you
Position yourself near the end of the run group when you grid your car.
Go ride with someone that is experience that can give you a basic rundown
Let the grid workers know you are a novice and would like an instructor.
How to set your tire pressure
Set your initial tire pressure (use side panel on car)
Chalk your tires (see video below)
Run your first run
See where your wear marks are
Adjust tire pressure up if wear marks are on the side wall
Adjust tire pressure down if you are not wearing on the tread patch
Heat build up will increase your tire pressure so monitor your readouts after each run and return tire pressure back to optimal point
AT THE STARTING LINE
WHAT TO DO
No smokey burnouts
Clean launch, maximize your grip, though do not bog.
Prepare to shift early into 2nd if there is an immediate slalom. Shifting whilst mid turn could upset the balance of your car.
At the start, point your car in the direction you need to go. As in if the first turn is to the left don't point your car strait. Get as much angle to the left as possible.
First runs
Start slow - build up your confidence
Don't compare your times immediately to others. Improve your own driving with feed back from instructors
Once you build up your confidence don't be afraid to push it! Most locations are very safe and have allowances for wipe-outs.
Fold mirrors in
Don't look back if you think you hit a cone
AVERAGE COST TO RUN A FULL SEASON OF AUTOCROSS
Most regions are 10-15 events with drops, so you dont have to make every event
Most Street tires should last 2 seasons even aggressive sets like RE71R Bridgestones
10 events @ $45 = $450
1/2 set of tires: $400
1 hour drive each way to location: $20 gas = $200
Basic Gear: $50
Alignment: $80
TOTAL COST: $1,200
TIps & Tricks to numbering your Autocross car
Generally pick a number less than 199
Pick a reversible number thats easy to distinguish. eg. 81
individual Magnetic numbers are best for autocross but can come off at HPDE
Magnetic Placards are easiest but wont work with co-drivers
Tire HEAT MANAGEMENT
Generally Hotter tires grip better.
During cold days the best thing to have is a co-driver
A set of RCX Tire Blankets will work great too. These can be homemade out of insulation as well. Check out our video.
ALIGNMENT
Below is a general idea of where to go with you cars alignment. But be warned every car is different. A good place to start is to find someone with your car that already competes regularly and ask them about their alignment.
Camber
“The inward or outward angle of the wheels”
Front Wheels generally like lots of negative camber.
“Street” Camber is generally less than -1 with race anywhere up to -3.5 or so. Race Camber will wear out your tires quickly. We suggest a set of adjustable camber plates that you can adjust at the track if you dont tow your car. This lets you set race camber at the track and then return it to street for the drive home.
CASTER
“How forward or backward your tires are relative to its center balance point”
Factor Caster settings are usually crossed so cars have a slight drift to the right in case a driver falls alseep.
Race Caster is usually positive. E.G on Axstang we run 7.2 degrees forward Caster
TOE
“How much your wheels are facing outward or inward or perfectly PARALLEL while looking directly at the car from the front”
Toe out allows for greater slip angle but will also wear your tires quickly on the street. Lots of toe out is great for autocross but can have mixed results on track. It is not really safe to run on the street. If you tow your car you can run a race style toe alignment for autocross.
Camera sETUP GUIDES
Camera Placement
Inside car between front seats
Lets you see the environment and your driving input. See video below on light balancing though as that can be a problem.
Outside Car Driver-side
Lets you see driver input and how close you are hitting apexes. Cant see right side however.
MORE TO COME
Tell us what you would like to see
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